Antique & vintage goldstone jewelry

THE ALLURE OF GOLDSTONE

Goldtone is a specially treated glass which is classified as a man-made gemstone because of its inclusion of copper. Earliest factual evidence places its invention on the island of Murano, near Venice, Italy in the seventeenth century by Vincenzo Miotti, who was granted exclusivity in its production. The secret recipe was guarded by the Miotti family for centuries.

The materials involved are quite inexpensive, but, there is a lot of finness in achieving a dense and even blend in the goldstone mix, necessary for its characteristic sparkle. By the 19th century, the process was independently rediscovered by French chemists. The Miotti family had also quit glass production and their methods were divulged. In the 1870s, goldstone was selling for $5 to $15 per pound, depending on quality.

Brown goldstone is the most common color. This type of glass is achieved by the addition of copper salts and iron oxide to the glass-making process. The liquid glass is left to cool very slowly with little oxygen, turning the copper salts to metallic copper.

Here is the recipe of the 19th century French chemist Pelouze:
"It is obtained by melting together 250 parts sand, 100 parts carbonate of soda, 50 parts carbonate of lime, and 40 parts bichromate of potassium. It will be seen that by this formula the spangles with a basis of copper are replaced by spangles with a basis of chrome."  (Dieulafait, 1876)

Other colors of goldstone sometimes seen are blue, purple, green or red. These are achieved by using colored glass or metals other than copper. Since goldstone is a type of glass, which can be molded in many shapes, it is ideal for jewelry making. Currently most goldstone is made in China. (D.H.)

~More About Goldstone Jewelry~

Large Victorian Revival Coral Celluloid Earrings

Something Old, Something New, Something Borrowed, Something BoHo

Wedding fashions have taken a big leap, (I think) forward, since my own marriage in 1973. I admit, I did none of the planning myself and it was really my mother's wedding since I was busy trying to graduate from college. I gave my Mom two months notice. I wore her dress and pearl earrings and my bridesmaids made there own dresses. The rules of fashion were so rigidly narrow for church weddings--white or ivory for the wedding gown; "pearls" or "diamonds" for jewelry. Even the wedding cakes were uninspired. White on white.

One escape was a "flower child" union, barefoot in a field with flowers in the hair. This hippie or bohemian outlook on life and fashion did not die, but keeps reinventing itself. Resurfacing in the 1990s as BoHo, and skyrocketing to general awareness by celebrity endorsement, (notably, Sienna Miller, Kate Moss, Mischa Barton, Nicole Ritchie, Lily Cole, and the Simpson twins) there was renewed approval of a "folk" look. We are now past the first crest of this most current wave of flounces, smocking, long white skirts, Ugg boots, and embroidery. But, the need for self-expression is still strong, and the Boho vintage look is still mined and re-invented by fashion designers (Marc Jacobs, Pucci, and Dior). Romanticism, Goth, and "Twighlight" proponents also fuel the fire for "group individualism". From writer Bob Stanley, "the late 1960s are never entirely out of fashion, they just need a fresh angle to make them de jour".

The Recession has promoted a more sensible and thrifty attitude towards clothing and accessories. It's a relief to see movie stars and models mixing it up with vintage, thrift store, and new. Once, you begin looking backwards for inspiration, a huge palette for your expression becomes available. I am a proponent, since quality can be found in vintage at a fraction of new's price.

An example of undervalued vintage jewelry, superb as bridal jewelry, can be found in the Victorian Revival period. Coral-colored celluloid was popular and often pressed into flowery arrangements. It looks fabulous and fresh with lace. The combination is very feminine yet unique. (D.H.)

~More about the coral celluloid earrings~